Although considered two entirely separate areas, Bugis Street and Kampong Glam are within a few minutes walk of each other, and have a similar atmosphere.

You cannot be considered a tourist unless you’ve bought some of the many cheap fashion items at Bugis Street Markets (open from 10am – late every day) or bought a snack from one of the many local takeaway places. Fortunately, Bugis Street MRT is in the centre of it all, and there’s a smaller markets selling cheap t-shirts and food directly outside the MRT in the park.

Opposite the markets is Bugis Junction, home of a large BHG store (similar to David Jones or Myer) and a plethora of smaller trendy shops. Bugis Junction is also home to a great Japanese restaurant, Ajisen, where Meredith and I had dinner one evening (200 Victoria Street, Ph (65) 6333 9512).

A few minutes walk from Bugis Junction up North Bridge Rd will take you to Kampong Glam, also known as the Arab Quarter. At the centre, lies Singapore’s Sultan Mosque and this is surrounded by narrow streets with shop houses selling everything from auto parts to used Japanese clothing to Beads and fabrics.

It’s also home to our favourite lunchtime spot, an Arabic café with hip black and white décor, Samar Café (60 Kandahar St (65) 6398 0530). Also look for Quaint Secrets, Haji Lane, for all your beading supplies (just ask Meredith!)

Photo: Haji Lane, Kampong Glam, Singapore.

Well, after my previous terse remark about Clarke Quay and Orchard Road (#18 of my 23 facts about Singapore) you wouldn’t expect me to have anything nice to say, but I would have to say no trip to Singapore would be complete without at least window shopping through both areas.

Orchard Rd is where it all happens for the westerners looking for a piece of home. All the trendy names in fashion are represented here, alongside all of the leading hotel names and more. Everything is twice the price of other areas in Singapore, and there is a certain level of sterility about the place which haunts me.

Of course, the MUJI shop is here, and Meredith and I were guilty of spending hours in there alone. I think this was our only visit to a Starbucks (gasp!) whilst we were in Singapore as well.

Clarke Quay, riverfront place to be for trendy locals and tourists is home to all the big names in the local club scene – Ministry of Sound for example are here, along with great American export Hooters. This would have to be the biggest cringe factor of our stay – local Singapore girls are not designed to be stuck into tiny fluoro orange shorts, it’s just not natural to say the least.

Thanks to our local contact, Steven, we also visited Brewerks - a great brewery and restaurant, which sells everything from small 300ml glasses through to the 4 litre tabletop keg, Party Pig and Takeaway Kegs, although at a fairly steep price.

Looking for desserts and coffee (in my case, Affogato) to die for? Then you must visit local Italian Deli Ricciotti (20 Upper Circular Rd, The Riverwalk Ph (65) 6533 9060).

Clarke Quay is also the destination for rides on traditional bum boats (Ph (65) 6339 6833), complete with tacky soundtrack and English commentary. This isn’t as bad as it sounds, and was definitely a highlight of our Singapore visit.

Photo: Riverside Point, at night along the Singapore River.

Little India was the area in which we stayed, at a great 35 room hotel called the Perak Hotel, which is on Perak Road, Little India. Although fairly basic, the personal service, free breakfasts, great air conditioning and central location kept us happy. The location meant that everything around Little India and Bugis Street were within easy walking distance, and we had the Little India MRT station only an easy 5 minute walk away, near the lively Tekka Markets.

Highlights of Little India for me included the aforementioned Tekka Markets with Hawker style foods and a wet markets, always brimming with activity, and my personal highlight for food in the area was the great meal we had at Chella’s Vegetarian Corner, a funky Indian restaurant with a great menu, friendly staff and price; it was only $5.50 for Chella’s Special Meal, which was a platter of food in itself (70 Serangoon Rd, Cnr Dunlop, Ph (65) 6297 6297).

The whole of Serangoon Rd is interesting – many shops selling fabrics and knick knacks, open way into the night. Walk far enough up the road, past Sri Veerama Kaliamman Temple on the left and you’ll reach Serangoon Plaza and nearby Mustafa Centre, a 24 hour multi level shopping arcade, with the best rates for currency exchange that we could find in Singapore in their ground floor money changer.

Remember, hardly anything opens before 10.00am, so if you are starting off early, maybe visit the Tekka Markets, the above mentioned temple and perhaps Masjid Abdul Gaffoor before expecting to hit the shops.

Photo: Vegetable Shop, Serangoon Rd, Little India.